Since 2020, Surprenant, Beneski & Nunes, P.C. has been happily supporting local food spots by spotlighting a new one each month. A local business, specializing in estate planning and elder law, they’re sending us out to other local gems like Morgan’s Cantina in Fall River.
Daryn Andrade’s ancestry goes back to the Azores. But the chef at Morgan’s Cantina, the much-anticipated fine Mexican cuisine debut by restaurateurs Nicole and Mike Lund, didn’t aspire to cook Portuguese food anywhere in this area. “Too much competition,” says Andrade, who was a chef at the Lunds’ seasonal Pier 52 before the concept of a Mexican cantina at this spot in Fall River was hatched.
While there are many Mexican outlets throughout Fall River and New Bedford, this one stands out among its family-oriented and casual counterparts. “We wanted something where you could dress up to go,” he says. And with a bar full of small-batch authentic tequilas—using time-honored distilling methods as well as carefully selected agave plants—you’ve got a place geared for adults with more sophisticated tastes.
And the location—with a sweeping view of Borden Light Marina, where sister restaurants Pier 53 and the Tipsy Seagull are located, and the Braga Bridge—can’t be beat. The space was originally a boat shed, and it was reinvented to take in the surroundings with its expansive dining room windows.
This didn’t happen without a lot of hard work. Andrade traveled down to Austin, Texas when the business plan was coming together to research the hip city’s high-end Mexican scene. He was impressed with how knowledgeable establishments there were about authentic cooking flavors and, of course, tequilas. Morgan’s Cantina bar manager Tony Maldonado also has embraced the creativity of working with tequila, and counts their traditional Tommy’s Margarita and Hibiscus Punch among his favorite concoctions. Even their Morgan’s espresso martini is made with a tequila reposado.
Andrade’s parents were from Fall River and New Bedford, but he was born in Florida. After coming back to the area and attending Bristol Community College, he worked in a number of kitchen jobs in Boston and Providence.
But this is his first launch, and the effort to stand out has paid off. “We’re a 100 percent scratch kitchen,” says Andrade. “We make all our corn tortillas everyday, squeeze our own juices, and get our very fresh seafood from Kyler’s.”
Short rib birria (traditional stew) pops up in the most popular dishes—from the mac and cheese entrée to the quesadilla starter. There are a couple of dishes with carne asada (grilled steak), from fajitas and tacos to a signature entrée. Andrade admits that Pier 52 will always be the seafood destination of the sister restaurants, but one can’t help to put mariscos on the menu, from the Dorado (a blackened mahi mahi) to their tuna ceviche. Andrade admits the traditional Mexican ceviche is made with shrimp, but the tuna version has been a hit with his clientele nonetheless.
Andrade is also very proud of his frijoles charros, a popular side, simmered with smoked pork bellies, a traditional and hearty Mexican dish originating from Northern Mexico. Don’t leave without getting the churros for dessert.
Morgan’s Cantina,
1 Ferry St., Fall River
Photography by Liam Connor Photography.
Last post in the series: Metta Market in New Bedford has a magical collection of novel snacks and beverages, each individually selected by Lita, owner of the market and Spicy Lime, which is just next door. Learn more.
